I just cannot walk 5 steps without someone yelling “MISTER!”. Half the scooter riders even yell it as they ride me walking. Maybe it means “hello foreigner”. Or perhaps “That’s funny – a man fell in the bleach!” It definitely expresses surprise. And no wonder, really. Six days into Indonesia’s West Timor I have seen white people exactly once – A German couple also shopping in the same Western-style mall into which I’d accidentally (and briefly) strayed.

Even as I’m sitting in the shade on the beach writing this diary entry, I’m public property for anyone to come up and strike a conversation. I’d have thought it obvious that with iPad open I’m doing something deliberately on my own, but everyone just wants to talk to the white guy. Sigh. Let me put a positive spin on it – it’s lovely to have human engagement on tap (at least it might be if I wasn’t an extreme introvert) and it’s fun (I guess?) to be the centre of attention. And everyone wants a photo with the white guy – random strangers, restaurant servers, even the ladies who sold me a pair of underpants!

Yesterday (Tuesday) was productive. I found a local garage where two of the techs spent 3 hours with a hammer bashing my bike panniers into shape. They’re not perfect, but with a little effort they now mostly close, and will keep out much of the rain. I’ll have to think a bit how to deal with the little bit of rain ingress still left. They cleaned and oiled the chain and put air in the tires. It was an expensive repair – all of AU$22 for 6 hours of labour. Can’t help thinking what that means for the local wages.

Next I managed to find out where and how to get my next ferry. It leaves 10am tomorrow (Thursday) and I believe it takes 24 hours (although at the gate through Google Translate they suggested “12 hours”) to get to Aimere in the East Nusa Tenggara, to Timor’s North West. I’ll then ride to the western end and take another ferry, which I hope will get me to Bali. From there its mostly riding with a couple of short ferries more like an hour than a day in duration.

Last achievement out and about I found some clothes at the largest local market I’ve been to, and when back at the homestay organised for what I’ve been wearing to be washed. That’s a good thing for the world in general!! I’ve given up on local data and will just have to deal with the expense of roaming, at least until I get to Bali. I think I understand the intention of the legislation, but the outcome – especially with broken government systems – really seems to me to miss the mark. Oh well.

Finally I had to repack the panniers to make room in the bed for me, and I crashed after a busy but productive day. Feeling much more like I’m in good shape for my next journey leg.

Today I’ve more or less got the day without agenda, so I’ve wandered on foot to the closest foreshore. The walk here was through mostly industrial area without much visual reward for effort. But I found the beach, not before being accosted once more by locals who insisted strenuously that I sit and chat. “Where are you from?” of course the first question. It turns out this gentleman has been to Aus “13 times” himself. Intriguing! Without batting an eyelid he then said “11 times in Australian jail – where I learned English!” Wooooha!?! What have I wandered into here?? He was a fisherman, and “accidentally” strayed into Australian waters those dozen or so times. Our coastguard do their job well! Anyway, with 12+ months accomodation on Her (as it was then) at Her Majesty’s pleasure, I guess it becomes an expensive process to keep Australia safe. However complicated and messy, it is a good and necessary thing to have protected sovereign borders.

Perhaps I’m now in a space where I can relax and exhale a little more, which may even reduce some of the own goals and other complications moving forward. Does that sound naive? Time will tell. Still; a warm smile, dogged persistence, patience and a little creativity gets me by when I’m inadvertently doing things the hard way.

I’ll see if I can find somewhere for a bit of brunch, and then maybe wrestle some photos or even video into shape for the diary this afternoon.

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