Places can be beautiful, and experiences can be exhilarating. But it consistently continues to be people that highlight my road trip.
Bali has been no different.
Back in Labuan Bajo I had a coffee overlooking the docks. A couple sitting at the next table said hello, and we had a brief conversation of no more than maybe 5 minutes. In that short time I’d learned that German Lupo and his local partner Felicia live in Bali, and had what later turned into an invitation to stay in their spare bedroom when I got here. Two islands, three ferries and a few days later I’ve taken up that kind offer, staying two nights in their beautifully appointed spare room.
Lupo and a few of his mates went out for drinks and a pizza last night, and warmly welcomed me into their circle as if a long-lost friend. It turns out that Lupo and a handful of others have lived here for the better part of two decades, and were surfing the now-famous Bali beach when the place was so remote and uninhabited that people thought they were nuts for moving into the area. It is of course now a thriving metropolis, and one of the world’s most famous tourist destinations. Although no one said as much, it is my reading-between-the-lines sense that this small cadre are right in the heart of the history of this place. I don’t think it stretches things to say they’re collectively something of a catalyst that has brought this tourist attraction into being. And yet they’re so down to earth, welcoming, hospitable, and generous.
After their typical early-morning surf (and my sleep in), we met for brunch at “Canteen”, a cafe started by one of Lupo’s mates, Dave. Canteen was apparently the very third eatery in the whole area; now of course there are at least hundreds of cafes and restaurants, hot-housed by a constant flow of western (and other) tourists coming for sun, surf and a good time. Canteen has served me the first coffee since I left Melbourne that had me ordering a second cup. Both mornings. I went to pay my bill the first morning and the staff said they were under instruction not to accept my payment. Thank you, Dave; that’s very kind.
Six of us then went on a 90 minute ride in convoy out into the local hills to Gong Jatiluwih Restaurant and Lounge, which I’m told is a famous and world-heritage-listed rice field. I’d forgotten how fun it is to ride in convoy. In fact I think the last (only?) other time I’ve done it would have been 3 decades ago, almost to the day – when a few of us set up a motorcycle club at University of Tasmania in my first year on campus. (Those were good times!) Weaving through the hills together is poetry in motion. I tried throwing the drone up to get a bit of aerial footage, but I still haven’t got that working. More research required!
There’s a weekly comedy night on that usually sees at least a few of the group in the audience. Lupo and Felicia went, but I piked as I needed a little downtime and am pretty keen to get the trip’s videos up to date. I think I finally published the first part of the last Timor-Leste video at about 3am, but I’ve got the second half close to done as well.
A bunch of us met again at Canteen for breakkie this morning, and at least I then felt like I was parting from deep friendships. It may not be the last time our paths cross, and depending on timing that includes an invitation to drop by at the home of one of the circle… in Belgium.
Thank you Lupo, Felicia, Dave, Natas, Simon, and all for making me so very welcome. My couple of days in Bali were probably nothing like the typical tourist stay at Bali’s Kuta, but I wouldn’t trade it for the world. And all that was the result of a 3-5 minute conversation with then-stranger last week in Badjo.
I rode up this morning from the southern tip of Bali to the north east, where the ferry to Java is about half an hour crossing, plus a bit of manoeuvring in both docks. I rolled straight onto the ferry again, without turning my engine off from the ride up. I hadn’t got my iPad out to write this diary note before we were under steam, and we’re now docking just as I finish taking these notes.
I’m heading down to Java’s south east this afternoon, and apparently I should be able to put my tent up on or near the beach for tonight and maybe tomorrow night. Then I’ll head to Central Java to meet a guy who’s apparently a bit of an adventure riding legend, to whom I was introduced by another rider I met in the little bingle in Timor West a week or so back.
I’d better head on down to get my bike ready for disembarking. Catch you in Java…!