Getting the bike serviced and the new tires yesterday was pretty uneventful, and I’m reminded again what a blessing it was to even manage to get that booked in.
I’d just paid and was getting my gear on when the typical afternoon thunderstorm dumped torrential rain on my bike. These events are very wet (yes that sounds obvious, but I suspect you have to be here to know what I mean). With brand new tires, only two points of contact with the road, a flood of water, and very hot tarmac, it’s a recipe for disaster. So I browsed the bike store for 15 mins to let the worst of it pass, and rode pretty gingerly from there for a bit. Caution paved the way for an uneventful ride. No need to recall memories of the last time I got on a bike with brand new tires, or to mention that I missed a speech I was to give when the shiny rubber, hot tarmac and Melbourne tram tracks did their worst. Hmmm.
Back to Dinah Beach after that, met a few more people and reconnected eventually with Richard from previous nights. Great conversation, deep and thoughtful. Lots of discussion about the brokenness of life, and how to best respond.
This morning my camping neighbour and I got chatting, and ended up ducking off to the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory (MAGNT) together. First time I’ve done something “just for the sake of it” on this trip, and it was refreshing. As MAGNT happened to be right opposite last night’s dinner venue, we grabbed a “steak sanga” (yes, that’s the official menu item name!) and cider for lunch at the same magnificent location. A lovely morning.
The Ski Club is equally beautiful by day as at sunset. The colours in the water are so vibrant, the clouds looked almost make-believe, and the tropical rain events are so dramatic. It is hard to it justice in photos:
The heat is exhausting, and I spent a couple of hours after lunch back at the camp site just sitting. The book of Hebrews kept me company for some of that.
Eventually I pulled myself back together to get back on “the job” of finding Timor passage. The second venue that’s been recommended for my exploration is a place called Buff Club. Sounds super-dodgy to me, but the locals and the website logo confirmed that’s buff as in buffalo. So I wondered on in, and after the typical wrestle with 35kg (perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but it certainly feels that much) of sweat-drenched bike gear, settled in for a drink.
I’ve found it useful to sit quietly in my own space for a bit and get the lay of the land before trying to strike up a conversation. Who holds the social fabric together? Are there community gatekeepers? Will anyone approach me to strike up conversation? A couple of times when I’ve been approached while sitting alone, it turns out to be a key connected member of that community who would take the conversational initiative. So its worth a pause before bowling over the first person who’ll return a “hello”.
Anyway, at the Buff Club (I still struggle with that name) tonight, I had a few pleasantries with the bar staff, but no one engaged with me, and I couldn’t get a sense of anyone more likely to be connected or social. But a bloke walked past and asked if he had my phone, which he’d accidentally picked up from a nearby table. Nope, not mine. Off he went. He sorted the accidental phone theft and settled back with his mate into a game of pool. With no better leads I wandered over and said g’day and could I join their conversation. “Of course!”
The three of us ended up shortly thereafter at an outside table, and somehow one of the two had roped in another guest, Matt, to join us. Best I can make it out was simply because Matt was Ethiopian. He then proceeded to patronise with words and actions, with an ugly racist outpouring. He thought he was just being funny, but I felt really uncomfortable for Matt. It was just yuck. But it can be tricky to work out if/how to engage, especially when I’m the out-of-town guest. I simply found a way to make my own exit with space for Matt to do likewise, and apologised to him on our way out for the terrible behaviour, and that I’d not been more direct in addressing it.
It was an effort tonight to put my “big boy boots on” and go pursuing conversation towards Timor passage at all. So with that outcome on the board, I’ve just rolled on back to the campsite and settled back in for the night rather than try again. Sigh.
I’ll probably head back to Dinah Beach tomorrow. Apparently there’s a yacht race on the weekend, and randoms can be welcome as crew. Signup happens on the Friday, so I’ll be there to check it out. Hoping that someone who races yachts might just be (or know) someone who sails them to Timor. In the wet season. With room for a boy and his bike.
Frankly I’m feeling a bit flat about my prospects. I knew I was pushing the season boundary from the time I planned the trip. But different constraints meant that’s just how it is. Now I’m on the ground in Darwin, there’s encouragement that locals who should know hold back from telling me I’m crazy (even on invitation), but I’m really deflated with the realty that everyone is saying no one they know is sailing far now the storms are rolling in.
Let’s see what tomorrow brings.
6 Comments
Great writing. It feels as though I’m right there with you. But ‘stake really? Even on the menu? Stay dry!
Just to make sure someone is reading? 😳🤣 Hmmm. I’m sure I know the difference between stake and steak, but that’s twice! Oh dear. Fixed in the text above. Thanks.
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Don’t know if this is an option but according to a random person on Facebook you want to reach out to Tamaki who can help arrange shipping:*protected email* …apparently she can get the bike (not sure about the boy) to Dili for about $1500. And here’s a YouTube vid of some overlanders talking about the process (couple of months back). https://youtu.be/6e9fu84JPiY “Hope” it helps!!! Thinking of you and loving your journal so far. Good luck!
Thanks Luke! Yes, I’ve had some conversation with Tamaki, actually. I love it when random, unrelated leads point to the same outcome. As you suspect, Tamaki can help with the bike and not the boy, so I’ve let that option pass, favouring an ongoing search for smaller or private options. Do keep any ideas coming though!
I hope Assisi is on the itinerary Daniel. If you want accommodation details let us know. It’s possible to stay quite cheaply at the apartment connected to the Anglican church in Assisi. There would be a spot for your bike on the ground floor.
It sure is, Paul! Looking forward to it.